Saturday, December 10, 2016

Progressing

Getting the headlights and tail lights to work was one thing. Getting the signals ans high beams to work was another.  While I was testing signals, the stalk switch on the steering wheel just gave up and basically fried the contacts.  I removed it from the car to work it on a bench, but there was no way I could fix it.  It was assembled in such a way that it was not meant to be ever taken apart.
So back to Pelican to order a new switch.
When I replaced it, everything worked.  The signals, the high beams and the flasher button worked too.  One of the signal lights on the dash doesn't work but I'll get to that eventually.
While under the dash, I also added a fuse for the dash lights.  This circuit is not fused from the factory so better safe than sorry.  Here is a picture of the fuse I used.  Picked it up at NAPA.
Fuse used for in dash lighting 

Signal and hi beam switch

 Next was to replace the ignition switch.  The PO had a replacement switch plugged in to the wire harness and just hanging.  I figured out why he didn't just install it.  Its a PITA to remove the ignition switch.  Probably a good idea to deter thieves.
There are two hardened steel bolts that have break-off heads that leave only the smooth portion of the bolt head.  Nothing to get a tool on.  Not even a vice grip.  I happened to have a diamond tipped bit for my dremel. I used it to carve a straight groove into each bolt head.  I used the grooves to back the bolts our with a screwdriver.
 Ignition switch bolts with grooves

Dremel tool with diamond bit

End of year update

Writing a blog is a lot of work.  Especially when there are so many other things to do. I give credit to those who can maintain a blog when our lives are so busy.
So its been a while since last reporting on the Projekt 911.  Back in July I made some great progress with the fuel system.  I rebuilt the CIS system and put it all back together.  Managed to even start the car.
So the engine would run, but it wasn't well tuned.  I drove the car around the block a few times.  There was some severe hesitation and backfiring.  No worries I thought.  I'll get those kinks worked out eventually.
I turned my attention to the electrical system.  So while the car starts and runs, and the dash lights work, nothing else did.  No headlights, turn signals, tail lights, brake lights.  Nothing. Looking under the dash and comparing it to Bentley manual, there were several connections out of sorts.  A look behind the headlights also revealed the most likely cause for non-functioning lights.  The wiring harnesses were never modified and hooked up to the new H4 lights.  Also, there were no bulbs.
I bought a set of OSRAM bulbs, installed them and rewired the harnesses to match with the H4 lights.  After some swearing and tweaking, the lights worked.  I even wired up the city lights in the H4 assemblies.  As a kid I saw these in Europe and I thought they were very cool looking.  Now I have a set too.
Headlight Wiring
 Lights Work



Another major issue was with the pedal cluster.  The clutch and accelerator pedals worked OK, but the brake pedal would not release after being depressed.  This was quit a problem the first (and only) time I tried to drive around the block.  I had to use my foot to pull the brake pedal up when I wanted to go.  Fun.  
So the pictures below show what a mess the cluster was in.  Rust, worn bushings and a broken spring. 




After disassembling the pedal cluster, I first cleaned it in an acid bath to remove the rust.  It came quite clean after taking a SS wire brush to it.  The housing was somewhat pitted, but in good shape.  The only casualty was one of the forward facing studs that broke off during removal.  The stud is actually the shank of a bolt that is welded in the housing.  I ended up drilling  and tapping a new hole now thru what was the head of the bolt.  Re-installation is done with a bolt from under the car in lieu of a nut.  
The brake return spring was not in perfect shape.  The arm that rests against the housing was about a cm shorter than it should be.  When I reassembled the housing, the spring would slip along the housing.  No bueno.
I tried sourcing a new spring but it happens to be NLA.  Not sure why since it seems like a replaceable item.  Anyway, to fix it I ended up bonding in a shim to the housing to reduce the distance to the spring.  The shortened spring arm does not slip against the shim so problem solved.
I bought the bushing rebuild kit that uses bronze bushings.  They all fit in nicely and the assembly went together with no issues.  I used a drift to remove and install the spring pin.  

 Shim Bonded in place

Brake pedal with spring and bushings.
More to come...

Thursday, July 14, 2016

It is alive!

One of the more satisfying steps to a project like this is when dismantling ceases and parts start going back on.  We that's what I've been up to the last couple of months.  Still managing to squeeze time in between work and kids activities, progress has been made.  Here's what I've done:


Before installing the new fuel tank I wanted to get all the nasty gas out of the fuel lines.  So with a bit of air pressure, I cleared the input and return lines.

 Reinstalled the fuel pump.  I tested it first before installation.  Good thing I did because it did not work!  I flushed it out with carb cleaner.  Lots of red residue (rust from the old tank) came out.  However it still wouldn't run.  My last resort was to "persuade" it to run with some gentle taps with a hammer.  Tap tap tap... whirrrrrr!  Success.  It was just stuck from sitting for years.

 Next step was to install the new tank.  I stuck the new foam rubber gasket on the tank flange and dropped it in place.  Piece of cake.


 I took a break from installation and wanted to see what electrics are working.  With the battery in place I ran thru some of the switches on the dash.  Hey! The gauge lights work.  Looks good to me.


Hooked up the fuel tank filler.

 With the fuel tank in, I've gone back the the engine.  Replaced the oil sender, replaced the thermostat seal and the oil bypass flange gasket.  I ordered the oil cooler seals too and here I am taking a look at access.  With all that is needed to remove the oil cooler, I feel that this can wait until I pull the engine next year.  So for now I am just hoping that the lack of oily residue near the cooler means that its not leaking.  I also replaced the oil bypass hose.  It basically crumbled when I removed it.
With all the potential oil leak sites on the top of the engine addressed, its time to put the fuel injection system back in.

 I had a couple of fuel lines that were cracked at the fittings.  I plan on replacing all of them  Unobtainiumsupply.com has a complete set of plastic lines for ~$150. For now I fixed the two that were cracked,  I cut the cracked part off and melted the plastic from the fittings using soldering iron. I made a tool to hold the hose by drilling a hole at the center of the block splitline.  Heating the hose in a pot of boiling water, The fitting was pressed in easily.

 Holding the fitting with vice grips

 Hose repaired!
 1,2,3 Runners

 4,5,6 Runners




 CIS in.
 Another diversion... Bought some taillights on Ebay




 New Fuel Injectors and Sleeves

 Injectors Installed
 Fuel Distributor.


 After fixing a couple of minor fuel leaks, and a few failed attempts, she comes to life!
Installed the driver's seat.  Getting ready for its first road test.  Stay tuned!

Friday, May 13, 2016

CIS off

The CIS system came off without issue.  The intake runner nuts were a pain to get to, but not impossible.  I used a 1/4" ratchet for most of them.  Some required a wobble extension.  The aft right runner inside nut cap off with an open end wrench.  The most challenging was the forward right runner nut.  That was done blind with a deep socket, short extension and 1/4" ratchet.  All the nuts were 12mm, except for one which was 13mm.  That must have been a replacement at some point.

With the runners loose, i disconnected all the left side and aft right runners from the airbox.  The other two had their hose clamp screws facing forward, so they stayed attached.  The rubber runner connectors felt really spongy so they are being replaced.
With the runners off/loose, and all the other hoses and plugs disconnected from the front of the airbox, I only had to negotiate the oil tube from the airbox around the breather hose on the engine.  Well that took a bit of persuasion but I got it free.  The airbox was free!.


Everything was covered with grime and dirt.  Who knows how many years of "history" are on these parts.  I cleaned up the airbox with some degreaser (Greased Lightening).  For the top of the engine, I first removed all the debris with a vacuum.  Note I fist plugged the intakes with rubber stoppers.  which fit perfectly and would keep FOD and water out.
With the debris removed, I spread an old towel under the engine and then used some Gunk to clean the grime.  Careful to rinse and not get anything electrical wet.  
Here are the results.  Not concurs, but definitely an improvement.  





After cleaning, I assessed the remaining components.  Well the oil line nipple off the cold start valve looks sketchy.  Also, the cold start fuel line is damaged and needs replacing.  P/N 930-110-570-00. 

So time to do more cleaning and order parts.  I also have video of the CIS removal which I need to D/L and edit.  Then I'll post it here.   That's it for now.

Cheers.

Monday, May 2, 2016

Step one...

To get this car running, all I need to do is put the fuel system back together.  That's what the seller told me.  As you can see, the fuel distributor, air mixer and injectors are all off the car.  The fuel tank is also out and by the looks of it, needs replacing.
So out came the credit card.  I bought a Dansk reproduction fuel tank.  It was a bargain at $320.  Its supposedly aluminized, so  it should resist corrosion.  It comes black, so I am going to paint it to look more original.  I read all about using Wurth's Stone Guard and saw an equal number of posts from people who had problems with it drying.  So instead I decided to go with Duplicolor's Truck Bed liner in rattle cans.  Over top I will be using a beige with a flat finish.  I was hoping to do it this weekend, but it was too cold.  the can says min 68 degrees.

Here are pictures of the old and the new tanks.  There was a little shipping damage to the new tank.  The fill tube was poking out of the box on arrival.  Not a lot of deformation so I can bend it back.




So while I wait for the temps to rise, I went back to the engine side to see if I can remove the injector sleeves and o rings that are still in the intake runners.  Upon further review and thanks to some advice from Pelican Parts forums, I decided to remove the runners, and therefore the entire intake before replacing the injectors.  I think it is too risky that FOD will get in the intake and ruin the valves, cylinders or both.  
There are just 12 nuts to be removed to take the runners off the heads.  From what I read, the hardest one is the forward, right side nut.  Runner #6.  So that's where I started.  You can't see the nut so I reached back there to feel it.  Yeah, it was there and I could just touch it with my index finger.  There seemed to be enough space back there, so I loaded a deep 12mm socket on my 1/4 inch ratchet.  It took a minute to get it in there and on the nut firmly.  Now I started to apply pressure.  This was the hard part because I could only push on the handle with just one finger.  Well after gritting my teeth I was able to loosen it!  It took 5 minutes to loosen because of my crappy ratchet and limited space, but I got the nut out.  I then proceeded to the remaining nuts.  The aft right runner, forward nut required a closed end wrench and fingertip manipulation, but it also is loose.
There are a few more nuts that I didn't have the appropriate wobble extension.  I picked them up tonight and expect the remaining ones to come out with little effort.

I took some video of the CIS removal and will get it uploaded and linked here when I have a moment.

Below are a couple of pictures of the runners and whatever fuel system components are wedged between them.  You can see the injector holes, most still with the o-rings in place.  


So next step is to take the runners off.  I hope this goes smoothly.  With the CIS system off, I am expecting to be able to clean the top of the engine (and compartment) up pretty well.  So "while I'm here" I expect to also address all the potential oil leak sites that I can get to now.  Oil breather? the oil sensor and whatever leak prone items will be dealt with.  I'm pretty sure something up front IS leaking because I can see more oil grime there then on the aft portion of the engine.  

So that's it for now.  Time to go order some more parts!

Friday, April 22, 2016

Car is home. Lets have a look.


Car coming home

Flared fenders with CCW's and Brembos

RUF glass bumper

I'm going to need some tail lights

Needs some cleaning

Complete with banjo bolts 

Distributor looks in good shape.  Plunger slides nicely

Need a new air mix boot

Side view

Another view

Inside the fuel tank.  A little more rust then I want to handle

Another view of the fuel tank.  I'm hoping this is worth something to someone else.

Look, an oil line!  Tensioners were upgraded.

So where do you think these speaker boxes go?

I guess under the dash.  They use up precious footwell space.