CIS off

The CIS system came off without issue.  The intake runner nuts were a pain to get to, but not impossible.  I used a 1/4" ratchet for most of them.  Some required a wobble extension.  The aft right runner inside nut cap off with an open end wrench.  The most challenging was the forward right runner nut.  That was done blind with a deep socket, short extension and 1/4" ratchet.  All the nuts were 12mm, except for one which was 13mm.  That must have been a replacement at some point.

With the runners loose, i disconnected all the left side and aft right runners from the airbox.  The other two had their hose clamp screws facing forward, so they stayed attached.  The rubber runner connectors felt really spongy so they are being replaced.
With the runners off/loose, and all the other hoses and plugs disconnected from the front of the airbox, I only had to negotiate the oil tube from the airbox around the breather hose on the engine.  Well that took a bit of persuasion but I got it free.  The airbox was free!.

Everything was covered with grime and dirt.  Who knows how many years of "history" are on these parts.  I cleaned up the airbox with some degreaser (Greased Lightening).  For the top of the engine, I first removed all the debris with a vacuum.  Note I fist plugged the intakes with rubber stoppers.  which fit perfectly and would keep FOD and water out.

With the debris removed, I spread an old towel under the engine and then used some Gunk to clean the grime.  Careful to rinse and not get anything electrical wet.  

Here are the results.  Not concurs, but definitely an improvement.  

After cleaning, I assessed the remaining components.  Well the oil line nipple off the cold start valve looks sketchy.  Also, the cold start fuel line is damaged and needs replacing.  P/N 930-110-570-00. 

So time to do more cleaning and order parts.  I also have video of the CIS removal which I need to D/L and edit.  Then I'll post it here.   That's it for now.

Cheers.

Step one...

To get this car running, all I need to do is put the fuel system back together.  That's what the seller told me.  As you can see, the fuel distributor, air mixer and injectors are all off the car.  The fuel tank is also out and by the looks of it, needs replacing.
So out came the credit card.  I bought a Dansk reproduction fuel tank.  It was a bargain at $320.  Its supposedly aluminized, so  it should resist corrosion.  It comes black, so I am going to paint it to look more original.  I read all about using Wurth's Stone Guard and saw an equal number of posts from people who had problems with it drying.  So instead I decided to go with Duplicolor's Truck Bed liner in rattle cans.  Over top I will be using a beige with a flat finish.  I was hoping to do it this weekend, but it was too cold.  the can says min 68 degrees.

Here are pictures of the old and the new tanks.  There was a little shipping damage to the new tank.  The fill tube was poking out of the box on arrival.  Not a lot of deformation so I can bend it back.

So while I wait for the temps to rise, I went back to the engine side to see if I can remove the injector sleeves and o rings that are still in the intake runners.  Upon further review and thanks to some advice from Pelican Parts forums, I decided to remove the runners, and therefore the entire intake before replacing the injectors.  I think it is too risky that FOD will get in the intake and ruin the valves, cylinders or both.  

There are just 12 nuts to be removed to take the runners off the heads.  From what I read, the hardest one is the forward, right side nut.  Runner #6.  So that's where I started.  You can't see the nut so I reached back there to feel it.  Yeah, it was there and I could just touch it with my index finger.  There seemed to be enough space back there, so I loaded a deep 12mm socket on my 1/4 inch ratchet.  It took a minute to get it in there and on the nut firmly.  Now I started to apply pressure.  This was the hard part because I could only push on the handle with just one finger.  Well after gritting my teeth I was able to loosen it!  It took 5 minutes to loosen because of my crappy ratchet and limited space, but I got the nut out.  I then proceeded to the remaining nuts.  The aft right runner, forward nut required a closed end wrench and fingertip manipulation, but it also is loose.

There are a few more nuts that I didn't have the appropriate wobble extension.  I picked them up tonight and expect the remaining ones to come out with little effort.

I took some video of the CIS removal and will get it uploaded and linked here when I have a moment.

Below are a couple of pictures of the runners and whatever fuel system components are wedged between them.  You can see the injector holes, most still with the o-rings in place.  

So next step is to take the runners off.  I hope this goes smoothly.  With the CIS system off, I am expecting to be able to clean the top of the engine (and compartment) up pretty well.  So "while I'm here" I expect to also address all the potential oil leak sites that I can get to now.  Oil breather? the oil sensor and whatever leak prone items will be dealt with.  I'm pretty sure something up front IS leaking because I can see more oil grime there then on the aft portion of the engine.  

So that's it for now.  Time to go order some more parts!