Progressing

Getting the headlights and tail lights to work was one thing. Getting the signals ans high beams to work was another.  While I was testing signals, the stalk switch on the steering wheel just gave up and basically fried the contacts.  I removed it from the car to work it on a bench, but there was no way I could fix it.  It was assembled in such a way that it was not meant to be ever taken apart.
So back to Pelican to order a new switch.
When I replaced it, everything worked.  The signals, the high beams and the flasher button worked too.  One of the signal lights on the dash doesn't work but I'll get to that eventually.
While under the dash, I also added a fuse for the dash lights.  This circuit is not fused from the factory so better safe than sorry.  Here is a picture of the fuse I used.  Picked it up at NAPA.

Fuse used for in dash lighting 

Signal and hi beam switch

 Next was to replace the ignition switch.  The PO had a replacement switch plugged in to the wire harness and just hanging.  I figured out why he didn't just install it.  Its a PITA to remove the ignition switch.  Probably a good idea to deter thieves.
There are two hardened steel bolts that have break-off heads that leave only the smooth portion of the bolt head.  Nothing to get a tool on.  Not even a vice grip.  I happened to have a diamond tipped bit for my dremel. I used it to carve a straight groove into each bolt head.  I used the grooves to back the bolts our with a screwdriver.

 Ignition switch bolts with grooves

Dremel tool with diamond bit

End of year update

Writing a blog is a lot of work.  Especially when there are so many other things to do. I give credit to those who can maintain a blog when our lives are so busy.
So its been a while since last reporting on the Projekt 911.  Back in July I made some great progress with the fuel system.  I rebuilt the CIS system and put it all back together.  Managed to even start the car.
So the engine would run, but it wasn't well tuned.  I drove the car around the block a few times.  There was some severe hesitation and backfiring.  No worries I thought.  I'll get those kinks worked out eventually.
I turned my attention to the electrical system.  So while the car starts and runs, and the dash lights work, nothing else did.  No headlights, turn signals, tail lights, brake lights.  Nothing. Looking under the dash and comparing it to Bentley manual, there were several connections out of sorts.  A look behind the headlights also revealed the most likely cause for non-functioning lights.  The wiring harnesses were never modified and hooked up to the new H4 lights.  Also, there were no bulbs.
I bought a set of OSRAM bulbs, installed them and rewired the harnesses to match with the H4 lights.  After some swearing and tweaking, the lights worked.  I even wired up the city lights in the H4 assemblies.  As a kid I saw these in Europe and I thought they were very cool looking.  Now I have a set too.

Headlight Wiring

 Lights Work

Another major issue was with the pedal cluster.  The clutch and accelerator pedals worked OK, but the brake pedal would not release after being depressed.  This was quit a problem the first (and only) time I tried to drive around the block.  I had to use my foot to pull the brake pedal up when I wanted to go.  Fun.  

So the pictures below show what a mess the cluster was in.  Rust, worn bushings and a broken spring. 

After disassembling the pedal cluster, I first cleaned it in an acid bath to remove the rust.  It came quite clean after taking a SS wire brush to it.  The housing was somewhat pitted, but in good shape.  The only casualty was one of the forward facing studs that broke off during removal.  The stud is actually the shank of a bolt that is welded in the housing.  I ended up drilling  and tapping a new hole now thru what was the head of the bolt.  Re-installation is done with a bolt from under the car in lieu of a nut.  

The brake return spring was not in perfect shape.  The arm that rests against the housing was about a cm shorter than it should be.  When I reassembled the housing, the spring would slip along the housing.  No bueno.

I tried sourcing a new spring but it happens to be NLA.  Not sure why since it seems like a replaceable item.  Anyway, to fix it I ended up bonding in a shim to the housing to reduce the distance to the spring.  The shortened spring arm does not slip against the shim so problem solved.

I bought the bushing rebuild kit that uses bronze bushings.  They all fit in nicely and the assembly went together with no issues.  I used a drift to remove and install the spring pin.  

 Shim Bonded in place

Brake pedal with spring and bushings.

More to come...